Sustainable fashion in full “Bloom”
By Else Demeulenaere
The exhibit "Guam in Bloom" at DFS T Galleria in Tumon has received coverage from various news outlets, but since I share plant stories, I want to take the opportunity to highlight this beautiful showcase of Guåhan's native flowers, curated by fashion collective Abby Crain, Franceska De Oro, and April Colitoy.
The exhibit features several mannequins adorned as native flowers, created with natural and upcycled materials. An outreach booth provides QR codes for you to scan and learn more about Guåhan's native flowers.
In this piece, I aim to share the artists' stories: discover how fashion icon and project lead Abby Crain fell in love with the mustard-colored Bulbophyllum guamense orchid, learn about Franceska's cultural connections to native plant species, and admire April Colitoy's stunning flower wallpaper.
What inspired you to combine fashion and native flowers for this art exhibit?
Abby: I aimed to highlight Sustainable Development Goal 15, Life on Land. I was particularly inspired by the endangered orchids at the Center for Island Sustainability, Island Conservation Lab’s rare plant nursery. Many hikers overlook these small-flowered orchids, so I wanted to showcase them, especially the Bulbophyllum guamense with its unique triangular shape.
April: I gravitate towards flowers as a subject matter in my work as an artist and designer. When Abby approached me with her idea to highlight our island’s native flora, I was excited and eager to work on a design that beautifully complements the fashion pieces, while drawing attention to the flowers themselves and their significance to our island and culture.
How did you incorporate floral elements into fashion designs?
Abby: Fashion and flowers complement each other beautifully, with florals being a timeless theme. My involvement with the G3 Conservation Corps and GROW has deepened my appreciation for native species. While the Guåsale' flower is gaining attention in local designs, I want to highlight more native flowers like Nanåsu and Alaihai Tåsi. Working at the makerspace since its inception makes this project very personal to me.
April: I wanted to accentuate the flowers through repetition in the design. This approach allows us to be immersed in the beauty of the flowers, and create a nature-forward atmosphere even in the contrasting setting of a luxury store. While the use of flowers is common in many curated design spaces in the western world, incorporating our native flora, plants with which we share cultural ties, makes it that much more special.
What materials do you use in your artistic process and how do they contribute to sustainability?
Abby: The key to showcasing the circular economy was sourcing the right materials for the exhibit. We focused on repurposing waste, taking “ugly” trash and transforming it into beautiful designs. CHamoru village vendors donated rice bags, burlap sacks, and malt bags, while friends provided craft beer toppers. For the Bulbophyllum guamense piece, we used a complex weaving technique for the dress, while the flowerhead was made of betel nut leaf sheaths. The Puting flowerhead consisted of electrical wires bolted through a spool from our filament. The dress of the Pågo flower was made from rice bags. The wrapping of a handbag in bubble wrap served as a symbol of a seed, emphasizing the innovative repurposing of materials.
How do Guåhan's flowers and their cultural significance influence your artistic designs?
Franceska: The exhibit serves as a great opportunity to educate our community about native and rare flowers weaving them into our cultural identity. The Nanåsu has a poignant legend about loss. Half of the flower exists because a navigator gave one half to his beloved before he set sail, never to return. When you squeeze it, the seed releases medicine for the eyes, symbolizing her tears after he didn’t return. This flower represents themes of tears, loss, and love.
We also learned about the rare orchids through the Island Conservation Lab’s work. Bringing this awareness to our community excites me, as I hope it will encourage more stories and a deeper understanding of these flowers. I’m eager to see how people interpret them and feel inspired.
Another aspect of cultural importance is the medicinal use of plants. Island communities in Micronesia keep Lodugao close to their homes as a remedy for flu, respiratory issues, and pneumonia. Yo’åmte use the leaves of the Alaihai Tåsi in fertility medicine. My grandmother has fond memories of fishing with the Puting fruits in Pågo Bay.
In what ways do you think this art show can contribute to the conservation of local flora?
Franceska: I hope the art exhibit will inspire people to learn about Guåhan's plants, their uses, their ecological value, and the stories associated with them. Whether people are hiking, swimming, or clearing land, I want them to know how to protect our island ecosystems. I hope the art show encourages participation in programs like Táiparehu, adding native species to their land. We hope to foster a sense of stewardship and encourage people to become citizen scientists who promote conservation in their daily lives and educate others about these vital plants.
What do you hope visitors take away from the "Guam in Bloom" exhibition?
Abby: While we aimed to create something beautiful that showcases the work of the Island Conservation Lab and the GROW team, our primary goal is education. Scan the QR code and learn about our native species.
How can the audience contribute to sustainability in their own lives?
Abby: We have recycling programs in place, accepting plastic types 2 and 5 every Wednesday from 3 to 8 PM. Clean plastic bags and rice bags are also welcome.. We invite everyone to take a class. Donors can check out the plastics house. Follow us @greengrowthmakerspace for more updates!
Thank you for your amazing work Senator Regine Biscoe Lee, emcee and organizer of this wonderful exhibit launch.
Special thanks to the DFS management, UOG President Dr. Enriquez, UOG Vice President Dr. Sharleen Santos-Bamba, Governor Lou Leon Guerrero, Lt. Governor Joshua Tenorio, Dr. Austin Shelton. Visit the exhibit and experience the vibrant atmosphere!
Dr. Else Demeulenaere is the Associate Director for Natural Resources for the University of Guam Center for Island Sustainability and Sea Grant where she mentors students and leads several forest restoration, endangered species recovery, and ethnobotanical projects. You can reach her at else@uog.edu.